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- PRINTWEAR TODAY » Issue: January 2008
EMBROIDERY FEATURE - Flexibility the key to success
The embroidery industry continues to grow within the promotional and corporate wear sectors - however, it is flexibility and efficiency that are key to ensuring you maintain a healthy profit. With this very through in mind we discuss the current trends with a cross section of equipment suppliers and ask what does the future actually hold?
When talking to a number of equipment suppliers, the current ‘buzz’ words within the embroidery sector are flexibility, multi heads and modular machines. Whilst it is fair to say this covers, predominantly the smaller to medium run sectors, across the UK it is the smaller runs that are currently seeing the largest increment in business.
And, this year, looks to continue the trend set last year with more and more smaller runs coming back into the UK. Garment decorators offering embroidery services are thus set to benefit exponentially, that is, providing the equipment is flexible and economical enough. Discussing this issue with Mark Robinson, Mark Robinson Sewing Machines, he commented, “Historically there has been a great demand for single head machines, all catering for the small volume market, sales are now being diverted to small multi head machines (predominantly two’s and four’s) because they offer decorators a far more efficient and economical solution.”
Explaining further, Mark pointed out, “Companies are now spending more on digitisation, there has been a huge improvement in designs - these in-turn naturally, by their very nature take longer to reproduce, which is why, I believe, we are seeing a lot of enquiries for our two and four head auto threaders.”
Gaining an edge in a competitive market
“The single head machine sector has always been very strong, multi-heads however, can give the embroider an edge in this very competitive market. They are by far, more cost effective, which is why we see our customers, having purchased one two or four head machine, come back for more.”
Peter Wright, Amaya agrees, adding, “Flexibility will become even more critical during the coming year since modular machines enable businesses to be far more efficient.”
Many of the personalisation runs are smaller, but with intricate designs and using a fixed six-head machine is not as efficient as a modular system, since decorators can run different designs at the same time, reducing user maintenance and creating a far more efficient business, within such a cut-throat market.
Tony Whitmore, concurs that one of the most recent and impressive advancements within embroidery has been the dual function embroidery machines. Although named slightly differently, be it dual function or modular multi heads - the fact that embroidery machines can run more than one pattern at once is a far more flexible and efficient use of an operators time.
Commenting on the SWF dual function machine, Tony explained, “The machine consists of two embroidery machines on one chassis controlled by a single unit. The basic idea was to provide greater flexibility to a machine , thus making it more productive and it was from this base that SWF started. Knowing, as they did, that this was a dream of most embroiderers the first dual function model was a large multi-head flat bed model that was clearly aimed at the large production units based overseas. SWF however are known for their diligence and it did not take them long to develop the first 6 head dual function model complete with a drop table making it suitable for garments and panels alike. When this was launched in the UK, it would be fair to say that there was an element of reluctance in accepting such a diverse application of a well-known process but as the range of models increased the advantages could be easily seen and the machine started to carve out a niche in the market that had not been previously satisfied.”
Explaining further, Tony added, “There is however a twist to the idea that may not have been at the forefront of the thinking when developing the machine but which has now become just as important. The original idea of the dual function models was to give the embroiderer the ability to embroider two different patterns and/or products at the same time. Remember though that these machines are built on one chassis and are controlled by one command unit so they can be used as a single machine as well as a dual function and it is here that the twist comes. As with all modern machines, the SWF standard range stops when a thread break occurs. The needle is rethreaded and the machine then carries on from where it stopped but remember that the whole machine stops. All heads. On the dual function models however this is most definitely not the case. As the machine is split into two separate units, only one side or half of the machine needles stop when the thread break occurs. The remaining needles on the other side of the machine carry on as if nothing has happened thus increasing production speeds and profitability. Tests have shown that a SWF dual function machine can produce 15%-20% more than the equivalent number of heads on a standard model. Over a working year that can amount to a considerable increase in the number of units produced and pounds earned. During the period from the introduction of that first model, the range has steadily increased and now covers all size of machine from two head to large multi head models with the middle size four and six head machines proving very popular.”
Equipment
The AMAYA XT - The professional multi-head embroidery machine that multi-tasks is, according to Peter, no ordinary multi-head system, the multi-task capabilities can produce like no other multi-head on the market. “Today’s embroidery production demands are quite diverse. AMAYA XT’s multi-task abilities and connectivity capacity enables businesses to take full advantage of consumer demand.”
The new Melco EP4, although aimed at the domestic and small run market is a compact, lightweight four-needle embroidery machine that is extremely user-friendly. As pointed out by Peter it is perfect for shops with limited space or for larger companies that need to sew test designs. The Melco EP4 is also durable and always operates smoothly. Different hoops snap in and out of the machine with ease and selecting a hoop is as easy as looking at the LCD screen and choosing the hoop you are working with.
The new Inbro Six Head IB-RTB1206 Auto Rethread Embroidery machine is, according to Mark, the first and only machine in the world to have the ability to automatically rethread on thread break without the need of user interaction. “Launched at Cisma in China, the machine was a major success at the exhibition to such an extent we will have to wait in the UK until July/August 2008 before the first machines are available as the back log for other international markets is so great.”
The machine works on a unique threading System with only One needle per head and the User will never have to thread the needle again, the machine is also auto colour change as well as auto rethread. Even Thought the machine is one needle it is still 12 colour with a colour monitor which has a 10 million stitch count memory, design database , USB port and Floppy disk drive for ease and Flexibility of use. Inbro are currently testing the machine at 1300 stitches per minute but the first machine to go on sale will be 1000 stitches per minute.
The single Head version is already available in the UK and has been selling very well for over 12 months. The Korean Manufacturer Inbro has spent over 15 months thoroughly testing the six Head machine and tests have indicated the machine can do the work of at least a 12 head embroidery machine. Mark believes “One of the main reasons we were so keen to become the Agent in the UK for Inbro was there technical awareness and ambition to create and improve on a very stale market, Multi Head and Single Head machines have only slightly improved in recent years, with the introduction of colour monitors, USB Upgrades etc...”
Continuing he said, “Inbro has radically changed this by completely changing the mechanical side of the machine it is like nothing else produced in the world and I am quite positive about the implications this could have for multi head embroiderers in the UK as their biggest problem is tread breaks as in most cases they need to produce the work as quickly as possible and constant thread breaks can eat in to their production time greatly and not only that they need check the machine constantly to check the machine hasn’t had a thread break but this machine will detect thread break, fix it and keep on going! I know the machine will be popular as the Single Head version has been selling in great numbers in the UK this year.”
At the moment Inbro is currently in the process of producing the six-head in the multi head variety as this is what there American market wishes but two-head and four-head Auto Rethread machines will be available later in the year.
Mark added, “Inbro is currently in the process of starting work on two-head and four-head machines of this type and these machines will certainly be very popular in the UK, we predict the four-head will be our best seller as this is the area the UK market is best equipped, most businesses find there average order size to match the capabilities of a four head machine. My engineers have just returned from a training course in Korea and were very pleased with the extra production the machine was capable of doing.”
Concluding Mark said, “The entire Inbro range is now available with USB Facility to complement the Floppy Disk and Direct Link which is already available on Inbro Machines. This upgrade is also available for current customers of Inbro.”
Technology has undoubtedly evolved, yet, many decorators often fear the new and ‘advanced’ equipment, questioning if all of the ‘extras’ are really worthwhile. “An emphatic yes,” exclaimed mark. “New machines run far quicker, and not only are they more advanced reducing down time, they are also far more technical, with 10million stitch memories, etc, they are now computer linked.”
Using a superb analogy, Mark said, “In reality, garment decorators should compare their embroidery equipment to computers - after all - you wouldn’t rely on a seven year old computer for the main-stay of your business.”
Which machine to choose?
Naturally, when investing in equipment deciding on which model, will suit both your current needs and future expansion plans, is of paramount importance. But how do you know which machine is for you?
Naturally, each individual supplier will advise that ‘their system is best’ however, as pointed out by both Mark and Peter, the reality is, seeing demonstrations and actually trialling equipment is probably the best bet. After all, until you actually see the equipment working, measure its potential downtime, ascertain the ease of use, user training, maintenance and so forth no real decisions can be made.
Peter pointed out that, demonstrations also work in the favour of the supplier. “Discussing the benefits and functionality of equipment is all well and good, but actually seeing the machine in action speaks volumes. In fact, once we have demonstrated our equipment, every customer realises the potential first hand.”
Mark believes that customer service is probably one of the major influencing factors when purchasing capital equipment. “Machines may well appear cheaper, for instance, on the Internet, but can the supplier provide full training and maintenance. Is the supplier local to you - or has local representatives that are on-hand should you have any problems with the equipment or require further training? All of these issues may seem common sense, but we can often get blown away by the promises of equipment, without actually looking at what it can really achieve and how it can be maintained to suit your business.”
Mark also believes that local suppliers will become increasingly important as transport becomes an issue in the coming years. “I believe that transport costs are going to become a major issue, and not just from an ecological viewpoint, but from the very fact that petrol prices are continually driving up - therefore suppliers in need of travelling great distances, will perhaps not be as accommodating.”
Peter also believes that when considering equipment, be it replacement, addition or start-up scenarios, all garment decorators should consider a number of issues such as reliability, flexibility and meeting work load demands. After all - the garment embroidery industry is fiercely competitive.
“Ask for customer recommendations too,” suggested Peter. “Any supplier worth his salt will have no problem in providing details of satisfied customers. But I really believe that training and support are absolutely crucial to the success of the installation and production of the machine. For embroiders to see a healthy return on their investment, then knowing how to get the most out of their equipment is essential.”
Next Month - we take a closer look at embroidery sundries, such as threads, hoops and software applications.



